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Silversmithing was introduced to Native North America through Europeans.
Silver adornment became important to the fur trade during the eighteenth
and nineteenth centuries. Eventually, the increasing demand for trade
silver fostered North American production to supplement European
supplies. Ornaments were crafted in Montreal, Philadelphia, and Boston
workshops by European-trained smiths. Active trade in silver was limited
to the years between 1760 and 1821, primarily in the Great Lakes, East
Coast, and upper Mississippi regions. Plains groups, less intensively
involved with the fur trade, received less silver. Subarctic Indians do
not seem to have been attracted to silver ornaments.
As gifts of
silver ceased with the dwindling fur trade, Indian silversmiths began
crafting ornaments for their own people. In the Great Plain cultural are
German silver was quite popular, never accepted by eastern Indians,
however, Southeastern and Southwestern Indian tribes worked with
sterling silver.
The three most
well known silversmithing tribes are the Navajo, the Hopi
and the Zuni.
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Navajo
Silver arrived
to the Southwest via several means. One was in horse gear from Mexico
and Spain, derived in turn from Renaissance and medieval times. Plains
Indians - often the victims of Navajo horse raids - also had an
important influence on Navajo metallurgy. Wire bracelets of
copper, brass, or iron were among the earliest metal ornaments worn by
the Southwestern Indians. Many of them reached the region in the 1700s
through trade with Plains Indians, who had acquired them from French fur
traders. The advent of silver in the Southwest coincided with a crucial
period of cultural change. Although not an indigenous art form, silver
was soon an important part of Navajo life.
Atsidi Sani
(the Old Smith), the first Navajo credited with silversmithing, learned
the craft from a Mexican smith as early as 1853. Under Atsidi Sani’s
guidance, the Navajo began to experiment with silver. A new lifestyle
evolved: warrior men became herders and, in their free time,
silversmiths. The
so-called Classic Period of Navajo silversmithing (1880-1900) was a
prosperous time. The art mastered, silversmiths created pieces for their
own joy. This changed in the early 1900s, when the Santa Fe railroad
brought tourists and demand for light-weight silver jewelry. Regardless
of the continuing tourist phenomenon, silver, for the Navajo, remains a
symbol of wealth and prestige.
One of the
hallmarks of Navajo jewelry is the extensive use of turquoise. The
sacred stone of all Native American people of the Southwest, turquoise
has a spiritual healing significance. It is said to keep the person who
is wearing it from harm. Navajo men and women adorn themselves with
jewelry, bracelets being the most popular item. The men and women will
often be buried with their jewelry. In the 1920’s and 1930’s, very
large and heavy turquoise stones were used.
Most Navajo
jewelry is still made in the traditional and classic way. However, some
artists are changing styles, forging new ideas and techniques, using
inlay of precious and semiprecious stones, channel work, mosaic inlay,
and overlay. In addition, the sophisticated use of gold and diamonds has
transformed jewelry making from craft to art. The versatility and
artistry of Navajo jewelry knows no bounds.
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Hopi
The Hopi
Indians have developed a unique style of jewelry making. The designs and
concepts are part of the Hopi religion, life and ceremonies. Their
jewelry is called overlay and is quite distinctive. It is made by
cutting a design out of one piece of silver and soldering it onto a
plain sheet of silver. The design is then oxidized with liver of sulfate
to produce beautiful shadows and shading.
Originally Hopi
jewelry resembled the jewelry of the Navajo Indians. However, in 1947
Paul Saufkie and Fred Kabotie were successful in getting the Federal
Government to fund programs to train Hopi G.Is of World War II in the
making of overlay jewelry. This led to the opening of the Hopi
Silversmith Cooperative Guild in 1949.
Charles Loloma,
a student of Fred Kabotie, was the foremost innovator of contemporary
Indian jewelry. In the late 1950’s he was the first to use gold and
precious and semiprecious stones. This completely changed the
"look" of Hopi jewelry. He became internationally famous, and
universally acclaimed as a genius in creating jewelry with multiple
kinds of stones, using the landscape of his people for his designs.
Preston
Monongye was another innovator of contemporary Indian jewelry. He had a
unique style of casting, and his designs differed from previous Hopi
designs. Both Charles Loloma and Preston Monongye have died, but their
magnificent talents paved the way for other Indian artists.
In the 1930s
silversmiths began using hallmarks on their pieces. The hallmarks
identified the artists by name, by initials, or by distinctive designs.
Today every piece of authentic Hopi overlay jewelry bears the hallmark
of the artist. The use of gold, semiprecious and precious stones is
becoming more prevalent, but the majority of Hopi jewelry is all
sterling silver. Another change is the increasing number of talented
women jewelry makers, however the majority of the silversmiths are still
men.
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Zuni
In 1872,
Lanyade, a Zuni, learned silver working from a Navajo smith named
Atsidi Chon, and soon the Zuni were taking the craft in their own
direction. Zuni jewelry is made with sterling silver and the
contemporary pieces also with 14 carat gold. The use of stones
(turquoise, pipestone) and shells is particularly significant in Zuni
designs while the silver is secondary, being the means by which the
stones and shells are held in place.
Among the
Zunis, both men and women wear an abundance of jewelry. Originally, the
making of Zuni jewelry was a man’s activity. Today, Zuni women also
have become jewelry designers and makers. The women and men in some
families collaborate, one doing the silver work while the other does the
shell and stone cutting, inlaying and polishing. In addition, young
people are learning the craft from their family. Contemporary Zuni
jewelry reflects the efforts of the silversmith to express an artistic
aspiration that will also be commercially satisfying and rewarding. The
jewelry making process adds to the richness of Zuni culture and
heritage.
Zuni artists
are world renowned for their channel inlay patterns, fetish necklaces,
cluster, needlepoint and petit point designs. They use turquoise and
pipestone, and incorporate silver, jet, lapis lazuli, malachite and
shells. Some of the more widely used and exotic shells include
mother-of-pearl, coral, white clam, green snail, melon and pink shell.
Their jewelry is meticulously crafted and their choice of colors in
uniting stones and shells is remarkable in its correctness. The Zuni
jewelry is dynamic, exquisite and truly an art form.
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